ボルドー最高評議会
the Grand conseil du vin de bordeaux
CommanderIES, wine brotherhoods

PHOTO
From left to right: Chadi Karam, Regent of the Commanderie de Bordeaux in Beirut; Angus Smith, Grand Maître Emeritus of the Commanderies de Bordeaux USA and Philadelphia; Kelleen Hubbs, Regent of the Commanderies de Bordeaux USA; Étienne Debbané, Maître of the Commanderie de Bordeaux in Beirut; Frédéric Currey, Maître of the Commanderie de Bordeaux in Dallas; Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, Grand Maître of the Grand Conseil du Vin de Bordeaux; Antoine Juaristi, Maître of the Commanderie de Bordeaux in Paris and Jens Miöen, Maître of the Commanderie de Bordeaux in Stockholm.

The Commanderie de Bordeaux in Beirut, a Great Growth

To bring together in Lebanon wine lovers and Bordeaux wine professionals: this was the challenge met by the Commanderie de Bordeaux in Beirut, especially amidst the difficult period this country is undergoing at present. This group of Lebanese wine enthusiasts introduced Lebanon, its heritage and its elegance, to its colleagues, who came from the United States of America, France and Sweden.

A glass in his hand and a smile on his face, this is the mood in which Hubert de Boüard de Laforest concluded his week in the country of the Cedars. He is a friend of Lebanon, a country he discovered in 1996, and a friend of a large number of Lebanese people who share his passion for wine. This oenologist, graduate of the Faculty of Oenology in Bordeaux, consultant, producer of several wines and above all joint-owner of Château Angélus, came back to Lebanon where he feels “part of a family”. Passionate about wine since he was a child and for whom this became his profession, he now combines these two activities. This is far from the first visit for this winemaking consultant and he did not come here just to spend a few days in Lebanon. Since 2013, this winegrower has held the function of Grand Maître of the Grand Conseil du Vin de Bordeaux, comprised of 94 Commanderies in 26 countries.

Bordeaux and Beirut: two cities and a shared love of wine

Just like good wine which improves with time, the Grand Conseil du Vin de Bordeaux continues to develop. A passion for Bordeaux wine and its culture today brings together approximately 4 000 wine enthusiasts around the world. The aim of these groups of men and women, all keen wine lovers, is to promote the culture of Bordeaux beyond France. Lebanon is no exception to this rule. A small country, but also a producer of good wines, some of which are renowned internationally, it concentrates some great wine enthusiasts, with Etienne Debbané at the helm, as Maître of the Commanderie de Bordeaux in Beirut. For Hubert de Boüard, the creation of this Commanderie has a symbolic value. “My relationship with the Lebanon began a very long time ago. I have been coming here for the past 27 years. In my close circle, there are numerous Lebanese people and I am aware there is also a huge diaspora around the world. An important detail is that many of them enjoy wine. It seemed clear to me that it was necessary to create a Commanderie de Bordeaux in Beirut. This is what we did with my winegrowing friend Etienne Debbané in 2015” Hubert de Boüard de Laforest tells us.

In keeping with major cultural events, every four years the Commanderies de Bordeaux meet in Bordeaux. It is a way to forge links focused on wine and on many other topics. It was during the event held in September 2022 that members of the Lebanese Commanderie gave their invitation to their colleagues. “We met members from other Commanderies who expressed their wish to come and discover our country, to share Eastern culture with us. Some were even astonished to learn that in Lebanon there is an interest and a love of Bordeaux wines”, Etienne Debbané points out. So the Maître of the Commanderie de Bordeaux in Beirut sent out formal invitations. A few months later, in April 2023, 19 people travelled to Beirut, from Sweden, France and the United States of America. The cultural visit began with the wonder that comes with it. This visit, which took place from 15th to 20th April 2023, is a first occasion and Hubert de Boüard de Laforest underlines “The Lebanese Commandeurs really started something. This is the first time that a visit on such a scale has been organised with several Commanderies.” It is a way of showing that the country is still standing, despite the numerous crises it is undergoing.

Discovering Lebanon

A week to enjoy and discover Lebanon’s cultural treasures….

Guests were welcomed in two venues with a strong sense, linked to Lebanese heritage and whose imposing appearance does not reveal the ordeals the country has suffered. From the Grotto of Jeita to the National Museum, to the MIM Museum, to the Corn Foundation, as well as the must-see ruins of Baalbeck, Byblos, Batroun, Saïda, its souks and soap museums and of course the country’s winegrowing properties, the guests for this week of visits were spellbound by the charm of Lebanon and the Lebanese people. In their schedule, guests also had the opportunity to explore Bhamdoun, overhanging the Lamartine Valley, as well as the pine forests of the Bois de Boulogne (Ghabet-Bologna), where they were welcomed for lunch by Lebanese Commandeur friends, Farid Abdelnour and Philippe Jabre. The warm welcome they received made a great impression and the visit of these living areas would not have been possible without families invested in the reconstruction of the country. “These families united to perpetuate and rebuild Lebanese heritage. The family unit has a place of importance in Lebanese society. These families stayed in the country and have rebuilt, despite all the ordeals they have suffered,” Etienne Debbané reminds us, co-founder of Ixsir. Without forgetting all those who are part of the diaspora who continue to help their family from outside the country. “This is the aspect of Lebanon we wanted to show.”

Jens Miöen, Maître of the Commanderie de Bordeaux in Stockholm, travelled to Beirut with his wife Caroline. A decision they certainly do not regret. Aware of the difficulties faced at present by Lebanon, the couple sees this trip as a moment to discover Lebanon. “It was important for us to learn more about this country. During this trip, I have learnt more than in 20 years of reading articles in Western media. What marked us was meeting people, the magnificent places we visited and naturally tasting Bordeaux and Lebanese wines”, he tells us, still filled with emotion. A feeling shared by the grand Regent of the Commanderies de Bordeaux in the United States of America, Kellen Hubbs. “This represents the sense of the Commanderie: above all, sharing focused on culture. We all have a shared passion for the wines of Bordeaux, but also, curiosity encourages us to take an interest in one another. This trip gives even more meaning to the project.” A trip that the Maître of the Commanderie de Bordeaux in Paris, Antoine Juaristi, considered too as an opportunity not to be missed. “I have many Lebanese friends who are proud of their origins and who have spoken to me on numerous occasions about this magnificent country. When I received the invitation, I saw this as an opportunity to discover this country that welcomes numerous cultures and faiths and which is, in a way, a model for living well together. The intermediary of wine has enabled me to meet people with whom I feel a closeness straightaway. It was a marvellous opportunity to have experienced such a wonderful moment. I would have regretted not having been able to make this trip.”